Everyone always goes to London when they come from America. I get it. It’s got all the big museums and attractions. I’m not saying you shouldn’t go to London. I love London. But if you want something old and beautiful and uniquely English, you need to go to the West Country to visit the little village of Lacock.
Lacock is in Wiltshire, about 3 miles away from the much larger town of Chippenham. Nearly the entire village is owned by the National Trust, and it fiercely maintains its quaint, historic appearance because of this.
Lacock has been around since at least the time of the Domesday book, in which is was mentioned as having a population of about 175 people. There is an abbey in the village that was founded in 1232 and is frequently used for films as it is in fantastic shape. The village itself survived through the ages off the wool trade and being a crossing point for the nearby River Avon.
With the exception of the abbey, most of the houses in the village are from the 1700s. However, there is still a medieval church, a 15th century inn, and a 14th century tithe barn still standing. They’re all beautiful architecture, and it isn’t uncommon in the warmer months to find people using sites for wedding photos!
Lunch at the George Inn
One of the older buildings in town, from about the 1300s.
Because people live inside the village still, they haven’t gotten round to banning cars.
The inside of the tithe barn.
Someone doing a fine spot of gardening.
The Talbot family (of historical photography fame) have owned the village for centuries, up until 1944 when Matilda Talbot gave the estate to the National Trust. You can see the grave of Henry Fox Talbot in the Lacock village churchyard. Unlike other National Trust sites though, this is still a living estate! Lacock obviously thrives off tourism, but people live in the village and even have a small school.
Because the village is so fiercely maintained in its historic state, it makes for prime filming. Signs for businesses cannot be posted to the wall like any other town, which makes it easy to work into many different time periods and places. Among other things, you’ll have seen the village in Pride and Prejudice (1995), Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince, and Downton Abbey.
All of this culminates in a gorgeous afternoon out, walking down the charming roads, having a pint in a medieval inn, and maybe even doing a bit of crafts shopping in the locally owned shops. Some of the houses will be opened during the day so you can get a feel for the interior of them, and some you can even rent for a holiday if you feel so inclined! I would definitely consider it as something slow paced to do, and a stunning base camp to go see the Neolithic attractions that Wiltshire is so well known for.
So if you’re looking for something off the beaten tourist path as an international visitor, I cannot recommend this place highly enough!
As per usual, I have disappeared off the face of the earth when it comes to blogging, and as per usual, I will catch you up with photos to tell the highlights of the last few weeks. We begin with the end, as my lectures have wrapped up and we put together our mock up exhibition case. With only £150 and a single car badge as our object, we put together what I’d like to think is a fabulous gallery case. It had its literal and figurative ups and downs, but it finished on a high note! 🙂
The next day after our “opening night” of all the teams’ cases, I had to go down to London to speak with St. Paul’s Cathedral about my possible internship this summer with them. I got the placement!! 😀 I’d love to have photos up for you, but as it’s an active cathedral you aren’t supposed to take photographs indoors. That and the day I was in was an important blessing day for the guilds of London and it was jam-packed with official people in fancy attire. Let me just say that it is going to be SUCH a great summer and I’m looking forward to turning in my dissertation so I can get on to the internship. 🙂
Tickets to London don’t always come cheap, so I spent the day with a friend roaming the streets of London and visiting some museums we hadn’t been to yet. Had a Chipotle burrito for the first time (yes, I had to leave the country they come from to try one), then went to the Hunterian Museum. I would not recommend doing this in that particular order, as the Hunterian is almost entirely animal and human bits and pieces suspended in alcohol. I have no photos because it just felt kind of wrong to take pictures of most of it. If you’ve got any interest in anatomy or the human body though, it’s a free visit and definitely worth the time. If I’d known ahead of time, I would have brought my medically inclined one to come explain some of the diseases in more depth than the museum had.
After the Hunterian, we popped over to the Cider Tap by Euston Station. There are two guardhouses on either side of one of the entrances to Euston, and one sells only craft beer while the other only sells craft cider. It’s good fun and we needed a drink and a chance to rest our feet a bit. After a pint, we visited the Wellcome Collection. (We didn’t intend to make the day a medical museum day, but it kinda happened after we saw the £17 entrance fee for the Transport Museum.) Most of this museum you cannot photograph as well, so I only got a few, but I’d definitely go back. We only had an hour and a half to see the place, but you could easily spend 3 hours in there. The collections rotate, but for our visit they had Forensics, The Institute of Sexology, Genomes, and Modern Medicine. This is another free museum, and right down the road from the British Museum if you want a change of pace.
Artefacts brought back with Margaret Mead from her time in Samoa. To most people, this was unnoteworthy. To the anthropologists, this is SO DARN COOL.
Again, not cool to the public at large, but anthro friends – look! It’s actual kula ring jewelry brought back by Malinowski!
Modern art and medicine actually blend together really well.
I believe this was a representation of swine flu?
I only wish you could have taken more photographs in the Wellcome Collection. It’s fantastic.
Back home in Leicester, King Richard III was finally reburied. The city went MAD with Richard decor. A couple weeks on and they’re still peeling Richard themed things off posterboards and signs. God knows Leicester could use the tourism though. For a city this size, a lot of people don’t realise it even exists, and it’s really a shame.
The Bow Bridge, famous for being the last one for Richard III to cross over before the battle in Bosworth.
Outside of the Cathedral during the week of Richard’s reburial.
Occasionally, someone would sneak a red rose onto the statue. It was generally quickly removed.
Leicester was probably a poor place to be named Richard for a few weeks there. He was EVERYWHERE.
Most of the day King Richard III was carried by open carriage, but by the last leg up to the church they had him in a hearse with some of his living relatives.
Hard to believe this actually drove by just a quick walk from where I currently live!
The procession was followed by the important figures in town.
It was also followed by the spirit of Leicester, with locals young and old adding a modern flavour to an ancient burial.
While the festivities for Richard III were still going on, I took a break from my research to finally visit Jewry Wall Museum, just a quick 10 minute walk from my building. Jewry Wall is kind of a misnomer for the place, as it was actually the Roman bathhouse when Leicester was under Roman rule. Most of the building has been carted off over the years to build other structures, such as St. Nicholas’s Church behind it. Parts of it have been visible its entire existance, but the underground structure of the building and the underfloor heating portions were buried and only rediscovered in the 1930s, oddly enough when they were digging to put a community pool in. Needless to say, the pool did not happen. The museum obviously doesn’t get much money, but they’ve got really great artefacts and the staff were some of the friendliest I’ve ever met. It’s a free visit, but toss a pound or two in the donation box. 🙂
Jewry Wall entrance. A bit of a misnomer for a Roman bathhouse.
The most intact portion of the bathhouse.
Mosaic tiles rescued from a Leicester archaeological site nearby.
Painted walls from another nearby site.
Walking “inside” the bathhouse.
The main entranceway into the baths. This would have originally been the ground level when it was in use.
A lot of this building disappeared to be used for buildings elsewhere in later centuries.
A good portion of the bathhouse stones were taken to build the nearby St. Nicholas’s Church.
You can actually see the Church through the bathhouse entrance.
Ahh, I love being able to touch ancient things!
More wall decor, placed with a Roman child for context.
Just imagine how long this would take to create, bit by bit.
What room do you think this would be in?
A replica of a Roman kitchen. Commonly very small.
A coin hoard!
Some brick that had still been fired after a child stepped in it. I imagine the parents thought it was adorable.
A better view of St. Nicholas’s Church.
The oldest church in Leicester, and still active.
Go and visit on a Sunday evening and you can see the inside as well as witness as Anglican service.
The week before Easter four of us all chipped in for a private box at the Royal Opera House in London to see Swan Lake, and we were not disappointed! If you ever get the chance to see something performed there, take it immediately. Though try to not be in a rush to get on the Tube afterwards. That was a whole new level of chaos and shoving.
The ballet was phenomenal, but the building itself is worth a visit.
We managed our own box on the upper levels.
Over Easter break I got to spend time in lovely Wiltshire again, so we took the opportunity to go to Avebury and let the little one go Easter egg hunting while M and I wandered around the Avebury henge. This stone circle is vastly larger than Stonehenge, and you can get right into it – even touching the stones! I’ve still not been to Stonehenge, but I’ve been told by a lot of the locals that this was the better option of the two anyway. I definitely came away highly impressed.
Avebury – the overlooked, but possibly far superior cousin to Stonehenge.
Stonehenge and Averbury are not even that far apart from one another!
For an approximately 5,000 year old structure, most of the stones are still in place. For the ones missing, they’ve added markers to keep the original feel as much as possible.
The inner ring, as seen from the other side of the ditch, between the inner and the outer rings.
One of the outer stones, alongside a sheep pasture.
Avebury is so large, it surrounds a good portion of a village.
And some have been altered by time and humanity.
Finally, on our last day in Wiltshire, we took advantage of the perfect weather and went to spend the afternoon in Bath. As it was a last minute decision, we didn’t have tickets to see the Roman baths yet again, but the city is so pretty that you can easily just enjoy the view and have a nice walk around town for a few hours and be completely content with it. We also tried a microbrewery in town this time, which had some appropriately Roman named brews. I can vouch that the Brutus is indeed delicious.
Bath is such a pretty city, rain or shine.
There’s something for everyone. Parks, shopping, tourism… It’s lovely.
However, good luck ever affording to live there.
The famous bridge over the River Avon.
More of the park by the river.
There were ice cream trucks everywhere.
“And here is a really old tree.” “Yes, that is indeed a really old tree.”
Even found a microbrewery with some Roman bath themed brews.
What better place to use kegs as seats though, really?
So there we are. I’m now back in Leicester for a little bit and working on my dissertation all week. It’s funny when you’ve finally got all the open time in the world that you’re not going anywhere exciting, but I’ll try to remedy this as soon and often as time will allow. 🙂
After returning quite grudgingly from the wonderful weather of the Canary Islands with some pink on my face and sand still coming out of shoes, we all dove straight into Christmas overdrive. I went back to Leicester for a few days to do some laundry and pack up some more presents, then back to Colchester. Last minute gifts were wrapped and we were then picked up and brought out to Wiltshire, where I was warmly welcomed for my first English Christmas. I regret not taking more photos, but it was a really great time and taking pictures kind of slipped my mind.
Christmas is different in every home you have it in, whether you’re in another country or the other side of your own, with family traditions making each celebration unique. With this in mind, Christmas in England is basically Christmas in America. Well, minus the Christmas crackers. They’re starting to slowly show up in the States and I fully support this adoption into the Christmas spirit as they’re pretty fun. If you don’t know what they are, they’re cardboard tubes tied off on each end, about 8 inches long. You find a partner and pull both ends, which will cause it to pop and spill out a toy, a paper crown, and a silly joke. The toys can be simple or complex, depending on what you get. Or you can take scraps of the cracker and pimp out your toy entirely.
All in all, it was a great Christmas and thanks to modern technology I even got to talk to my family back home as they were opening presents. Skype and FaceTime are the way to keep in touch for sure. It’s also nice to know my family isn’t the only one that makes everyone open presents in a circle one by one to draw out the Christmas joy of surprises. 🙂
New Year’s, like Christmas, is also pretty much the exact same thing as in the US, but there’s really only so many ways to ring in the new year and alcohol with friends seems to be a popular choice.
Short post, but I’m trying to get back in to the swing of things and posting once a week again. So many apologies for the slacking, but it just became a case of time mismanagement and dealing with the uglier phases of culture shock. I’ll write about it eventually, but next will be the excitement of my first rugby match and a visit to the Museum of London. Talk to y’all later!