Hidden Places: Castle Combe

Still lurking about in the Cotswolds, may I direct you to visit the little village of Castle Combe? This one is about 5 miles northwest of Chippenham, and is located in two parts. There is the narrow valley of the Bybrook River, where most of the chocolate box cottages live, and an Upper Castle Combe on higher ground where a modern motor racing circuit can be found. For today, we’ll be walking down into the lower portion.

If you’re coming in hopes of a castle, I’m afraid it’s long gone now. However, the 14th century market cross still stands, as well as two of the old village water pumps. In the same area you can also see some old stone steps near the cross that were used by horse riders to mount and dismount.

The village reached its economic height in the 15th century whilst under the guidance of Millicent, wife of Sir Stephen Le Scrope, and then Sir John Fastolf, who was the lord of the manor for nearly 50 years afterwards. The wool industry brought a lot of wealth across England, and did so in this village as well. In this case, Sir John Fastolf made a killing by supplying wool for Henry V’s war in France. Because of this business boom, most of the buildings that you can still see today are from the 15th century, with a few older buildings such as the Church of St Andrew built in the 13th century.

Castle Combe was once used for filming the musical rendition of Doctor Doolittle in 1967, and the residents became so irritated with the producers mucking about with their village that they attempted to sabotage the entire thing. Between the locals and the constant rain, the production had a rough go of it. It appears that filming shied away from the village for a few decades, but most recently it’s been seen in the movie War Horse and in an episode of Downton Abbey.

If you want to visit today, there’s a car park at the top of the hill. Be sure to bring your umbrella though, as it’s a decent enough walk and you’ll regret it otherwise. (We managed it!)  There’s a lovely inn you can stay in if you’d like a quiet weekend, and a couple of pubs to visit – of course. Apparently there used to be a little local museum, but my sources tell me that it’s been shut for a few years now. Pity! Regardless, it’s a lovely day trip, and I intend to go back sometime when we have more than a few minutes gap between rain showers.

 

— Kate

 

3 New Cities, 2 New Museums, and 1 Sleepy Kate

It’s been hectic since getting back from Christmas break, but it’s been educational and fun and MAN have I been lucky to see as much as I have in these few months I’ve been here. To catch y’all up with what all has occurred I’m doing another photo-heavy post, but I’ll try to get some actual writing in later this week and (in theory) be back to the usual by this weekend on scheduling. With no further ado, I launch you into the King Richard III Visitors Centre!

After finding the king in a car park in 2012, the Leicester city council rapidly put together an exhibit in the Guildhall. Soon after, they purchased the historic school building nearby the site and created the permanent visitor centre. They were faced with an interesting dilemma in that they actually have no artefacts to display. Richard is being reinterred at Leicester Cathedral next door, and there wasn’t much in the car park to tie directly to the king. However, the exhibition is put on using digital and print storytelling techniques and used 3D scanning and printing to display the skeleton in more creative ways than they could have with the actual thing. It may cost £8 to get in, but I’d say it’s well worth it for an afternoon adventure.

Next was a day trip to Bath. It was a whirlwind tour through, but we hit all the main spots and I’d love to go back at some point. The city is very strict on how they portray their image and it shows in the modern buildings blending almost seamlessly into the older ones.

The day after Bath we were in Lacock. Lacock is the coolest idea for a heritage project. Basically, the National Trust owns nearly all of the buildings in the village, so they have strict control over what is done to them. However, they rent them out for people to live in, and there are still enough shops (albeit mostly for the tourists) that it still feels like a functioning village. One that hasn’t progressed past the 1700s, but a functional one nonetheless. While we were there we got to walk through a house from the 1450s that was available to rent by the week if you fancy a novel holiday…

The next adventure was Brussels, as it was Valentine’s Day weekend and going to Paris would be absolute madness. Brussels was a much better choice, and we had a fantastic time! Unless you’re going to see all there is to see of Brussels and the museums they have, going over a weekend is plenty of time to feel like it’s worth it. Also much better to have good company that can speak a lick of French or Dutch. 😉

Finally, there was our programme trip to Manchester last week to see the Imperial War Museum North as a field trip. They were another case study of very little actual artefacts, but you wouldn’t realise it right away. Most of their displays are papers and letters, but they use multimedia and interactives to really offset what could have been a super dry experience and instead make it a very personal one. It’d be worth a visit if you’re already in the Manchester area.

So that’s all for now, but I’ve got another field trip Friday to Hampton Court Palace outside of London and possibly a visit into London for another wander this weekend. We shall see. It’s just going to be busy whirlwind life for the next month and then dissertations begin after that. Woo.

Wish me luck!

— Kate

How To: Grocery Shopping

I was going to title this “The Tale of Two Tescos,” but I only managed to get a few photos of the second one before the security guard started trying to sneakily follow me around like I was going to steal something or take inappropriate photos. Anyway, I figured for the next few posts I’d do a few How To’s on everyday life here unless something major cropped up to otherwise fill blog space. A week or so ago I was put in contact with a sweet girl who needed some advice on how to get by in England as an American fresh off the plane and I realised I had quite a few stories to tell already that I wish people had told me when I arrived. With that in mind, let us begin!

First and foremost, let us dispel the idea that everything in England is tiny. Yes, the country is old and has been continuously occupied and expanded upon, but they’ve hardly reached peak capacity. There are still rolling green hills of countryside and they’re just as big fans of supermarkets as we are in the US. There are many varieties of grocery stores to go to, but the closest supermarket to me is Tesco, so that’s who you’re getting as an example today.

I’m in the city proper, so I can walk everywhere I need to go and the shops are not an exception. The big Tesco is about a half a mile from my place, so it’s only a 10 minute walk to get there. The only issue with this is it also means walking in the cold for half a mile each way, and one way is carrying back everything you bought. I’ll revisit this later though.

Carrying on, we’re just going to start at the front entrance.

I apologise, but it was freezing and I did not feel inclined to march across the car park to take a photo of the front straight on. If your curiosity is killing you, you can see it here on Google Maps, complete with loitering youths. Also, if you’re reading that sign you aren’t crazy – there are old laws here that restrict opening hours of certain businesses on Sundays and Tesco falls into that category. You run out of crisps at 6pm on a Sunday evening and you’re running to a convenience store. Be sure to note that Click & Collect. I’ll get back to that.

When you walk inside you’ll quickly notice that it looks remarkably like a grocery store in the States. Ooo. Ahh.

Dueling Buggies
I didn’t intend to catch this moment of dueling buggies, but I think it makes the picture all the better.

Looking in to the fruit and veg, you’ll see that they’re all clearly labelled with expiry dates, but look closer… Where are they from?

This is when you realise that America is absolutely MASSIVE and that we can grow almost anything we want in our own country. You’d expect to find state names here. However, Britain is an island about the size of Oregon, so sometimes imports have to happen. You’ll find the locally grown food tends to say so in big, bold letters on the signs over the place they’re in (though not always, as this bag of apples indicates).

Honestly though, you’ll find a lot of the shop looks pretty much identical, or at least in setups that you wouldn’t find particularly striking. I’m a big fan of this style of frozen food section actually. Less likely to be hit by a frozen pea bag avalanche in the bottom shelves.

Heck, even some of the food is exactly the same. Wait, did I move to a new country?

Activia, what are you doing here?
Activia, what are you doing here?

Eventually though, you will find things in containers you didn’t expect and in shelves you wouldn’t have looked on.

I have to say I really love the teeny tiny pints of milk. You may not be able to tell easily, but those little ones on the middle shelf are only a pint! If you’re not a milk fiend, it can be difficult to go through a 2 pint jug and next to impossible to manage a litre one. Even if you are a milk fiend like me, it goes off much quicker here than in the US, so it’s great to get just a little one and pick another up on the way home if need be on another day. (Short shelf life is a trend with all the food here. Seriously guys, what’s going into US food?) Also, the milk jugs are tall and narrow, which is a genius move and should be mandatory to start doing in the States immediately. Suddenly the amount of leftovers hidden behind the milk for days drops by 90%.

And of course, the eggs. I could go on about why eggs are left unrefridgerated here, but I’ll link you to a more reliable source than my own word. You can put them in the fridge if you want to though, and if I have room I sometimes still do because it’s an odd sight to see eggs in the pantry. …And I’m afraid of knocking them over with a box of cereal, but that’s another matter entirely.

There are also a few things which just don’t come to the States, but are fantastic and should market themselves overseas. There are all the fun chocolates and biscuits and Yorkshire puddings of course, but man oh man do you need to try the squash.

SO MANY OPTIONS.
SO MANY OPTIONS.

Squash is an interesting concept. Imagine powdered water flavourings, but it’s real fruit juice involved. Yet no pulp. And it’s liquid. Whilst you could drink it straight from the bottle, it’d be like eating a spoonful of sugar when you’ve got a slight sweet tooth. It’s highly concentrated and depending on personal preference, you only want to fill up a standard pint glass with maybe an inch’s worth at the bottom. From there, you fill the rest with water (fizzy or flat will work) and enjoy! It comes in a ton of different flavours, and it’s probably my go-to decaffienated drink of choice.

Let’s mosey on over to the checkout at this point. Not pictured are the self-checkouts, but they are identical in every respect except instead of a Midwestern woman reprimanding you to please put your item in the bagging area, it’s a posh English woman. Now let’s see if you notice the only main difference in the manned checkout…

IMG_5116

They let their employees SIT! It’s a common sight at cash registers when the employees are expected to be there all day to have a chair (and usually a semi-ergonomic looking one) so they aren’t dead on their feet by the end of their shift. I can only ask incredulously why this isn’t a thing in America because frankly, it’s fantastic and I know folks who would go home hurting pretty badly because they had to stand in one place for 8 hours.

At this point, we’ve wandered the shop and checked out. Now let’s get a look at a Tesco Express (also fondly referred to as the Teeny Tiny Tesco). This one is much closer to my flat, but being smaller they only carry essentials. Great if you’re missing honey or carrots or such for a recipe, but you wouldn’t want to use it as your main stock up place.

For perspective on this shop’s size, imagine a decently sized gas station, but it’s only got grocery store essentials in it instead of an aisle for car parts and two aisles dedicated to sweet things. For example:

Here’s the point where I started getting shadowed, else I would have taken photos of such exciting things as the cereal/grains/bread/soup aisle and the dedicated 3 doors of frozen foods.

So earlier I mentioned something about Click & Collect and having to walk a half mile home with groceries. What’s up with that you ask? Ladies and gentlemen, I am about to share something that will make you insanely envious, as it well should for it is fantastic. Living in England means I have access to the glory that is online grocery shopping. Are you guys ready for this?

Log-in Screen

TA DA. Now this is the way to go for a grocery trip when you need to restock the pantry. Same as with the physical stores, there are plenty of companies that will do groceries online, so look around for what’s the best deal for you. Sticking with the Tesco theme today though, so we’re on Tesco.com. You can look on these websites and play around with them from any country – you can even order so long as it comes to a UK address in the company’s range. I should know, as my wonderful parents have sent me groceries before. 🙂

So looking at this front page, you should notice two main details. First, I need to get to £25 to avoid the £4 fee. And £4 will get you a lot of food, so that’s not going to waste. Second, the Click & Collect has reappeared! But I have no car! This is nice if you want to order your groceries and just swing by to pick them up at the front desk on the way home from work, but doesn’t do me much good. What’s that option on the left though? Does this mean I’m not trudging home with six bags through the cold wind? Why yes, yes it does.

Shopping 1

Let’s do a faux shop to give you an idea of how this works. I can always use some milk, so let’s toss that in the basket. Ooo, no whole milk in 2 litres. That’s okay, I’m a skimmed milk gal myself.

Shopping 2If you get milk, you always have to get bread, so I’ll just check the special offers out. Hey, they’ve got that tasty bread I liked on offer. I’ll grab one! Oh wait, I’ve missed the sale. Thanks for pointing that out Tesco! I’ll grab two! (You can conceivably click the Special Offer at the front page and buy only things on sale for an entire shopping order. I should know. I’ve done it once.)

Money Total

Speeding through the process, I’ve made it to my minimum spending amount and it lets me know how many clubcard points I’ve earned (good to spend on cheaper petrol) as well as any savings I’ve racked up. At this point, this will be the final price. However, I can choose substitute down here if I really want to make sure I get some bread. They could glitch the system and actually be out of that one on sale and allowing substitutions means a bread of equal (ish) value will arrive. (Sometimes it’ll be a nicer item, sometimes lower quality.) If I say no substitutions and the bread is gone, I’ll be refunded the price and the delivery driver will let me know what didn’t make it.

Here’s the basket in full, explaining what I’m buying and what sales I’ve gotten. It also gives a rough approximation of how long the fresh food will be good for, just like the labels found on the produce earlier.

Delivery Address

Next, you enter your details for delivery (blurred out for this occasion). After you’ve confirmed this delivery you’ve got some time available (Tesco says until 8:30 the morning of if your delivery is after 7pm, but different companies have different rules) in which you can come back and change your order around to add anything you might have forgotten or change a carrot for a parsnip or such. Or to add all those heavy tinned goods and soda that you didn’t want to lug back from the shop yourself.

Time Slot 1

You next pick a time slot. As it’s around 10pm now, I’m definitely not getting anything delivered tonight, but tomorrow is still available. Those crumpets will have to wait for another breakfast.

Time Slot 2Hmm, let’s go for the 9-10pm slot because I’m lame and know full well I’ll be in then tomorrow. From here, you just enter in card details and you’ll get a confirmation email. That easy!

It’s at this point that you can run into trouble in flats, and I have. Tesco and Asda both grump and grumble about bringing the groceries up to my flat, but Ocado has no issue doing so. I take the stance that if I’m being lazy enough to have groceries delivered, I want to be able to stay in my PJs if I so desire and tend to go with Ocado so they’ll bring them straight to my kitchen. Your milage (and levels of lazy) may vary.

So yeah, that’s the exciting experience that is grocery shopping here in the UK!

— Kate